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YANGTZE RIVER - CHINA

 
   
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Welcome on board the Victoria Lines cruise ship - best place to start is in the commodious bar.

 
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Another version of the Victoria Lines ship bar

 
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Under way early on first morning entering a gorge going up river on the Yangtze.

 
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Entering the first narrow section of the Yangtze The long Xiling Gorge - the first section is the Nanjin Pass. The River remains more narrow in the stretch below the new dam.

 
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We pass another, very sleek cruise ship.

 
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The stratigraphy in these steep cliffs is very interesting.

 
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Here the gorge widens

 
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Now we are entering another narrow section but the fog ahead obscures the view. We pass one of the many barges carrying coal down stream.

 
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More coal destined for the Chinese power plants.

 
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We pass a tiny skiff powered by outboard motor. Note the indication on the cliff face of previous flood level. Not also the water is green here.

 
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Here we are entering a narrow section - the Yellow Cat and Lantern Shadow Gorges parts of the long Xiling Gorge

 
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Passsing a river ferry boat on our way through the Yellow Shadow gorge

 
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We are passing villages built between the river and the surrounding mountains - Located below the Three Gorges Dam these won't be moved as there will be no flood here.

 
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We continue up stream passing another town

 
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We continue up stream passing another town

 
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Fancy finding a ship yard so far from the ocean.

 
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Here we find several large river cruise ships at dock.

 
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A town built right down to the river bank - no problem with the future rise of the river, here, downstream from the huge dam.

 
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We have stopped at Sandouping to visit the dam - with three ships tied to each other we walk through two to reach the shore.

 
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Going ashore we face the Huangling Temple built during the Warring States Period (1st century BC). The temple commemorates the emperor Da Yu who invented irrigation and water control projects. Unfortunately we don't have time to visit inside.

 
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Three of the river cruise ships at Sandouping.

 
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Whereever there are tourists expected there will be vendors. These ladies have fresh fruit undoubtedly for the Chinese visitors.

 
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Further along toward the bus parking lot we find stalls with more explicit tourist products.

 
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This new suspension bridge over the Yangtze is below and near the dam - built for traffic between Sandouping and the dam site.

 
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The road to the Three Gorges Dam passes across the locks still under construction.

 
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Each lock can accomodate 6 large ships - here we see several as we cross over the lock.

 
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Each lock in the Three Gorges Dam can accomodate 6 large ships - here we see several as we cross over the lock. This is the upstream lock.

 
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Another lock - this one for downstream travel - and it is loaded with coal barges.

 
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Another lock - this one for downstream travel - and it is loaded with coal barges.

 
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This section of the Three Gorges Dam is still under construction.

 
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This section of the Three Gorges Dam is still under construction.

 
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We will stop at a viewing area at the base of the huge dam.

 
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View of the main section of the dam from the east side.

 
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Final work on the huge dam is continuing.

 
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Final work on the huge dam is continuing.

 
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An aerial photo of the Three Gorges Dam project location

 
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View from high on the hill overlooking the dam area

 
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View from high on the hill overlooking the dam area - these are the parallel locks for passage up and down stream.

 
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View from high on the hill overlooking the dam area - these are the parallel locks for passage up and down stream.

 
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There is an even higher lookout location and here it is crowded with tourists.

 
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Many tourist gather around a large scale model of the Three Gorges Dam in an education building.

 
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Many tourist gather around a large scale model of the Three Gorges Dam in an education building.

 
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Many tourist gather around a large scale model of the Three Gorges Dam in an education building.

 
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Of course the complex contains a tourist sales store as well.

 
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View from the tourist area down onto the huge dam.

 
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Chinese worker tending the flowers at the tourist area.

 
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View of the Three Gorges Dam from above

 
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View from the hill between the dam and the locks - showing some of the power lines.

 
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Returning from the Three Gorges dam to Sandouping we are greeted by a horde of vendors struggling to make a sale.

 
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Building in Sandouping

 
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Huangling Temple in Sandouping

 
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Another of the river cruise ships tied up next to the Victoria Line ship - as we reboard.

 
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Looking back from the ship to the Huangling Temple as we depart upstream

 
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Looking back from the ship to the Huangling Temple and Sandouping as we depart upstream

 
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More ships sailing on theYangtze as we start for the dam.

 
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Moving up stream toward the dam - first we must pass under the bridge.

 
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Moving up stream toward the dam - first we must pass under the bridge.

 
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Passing under the bridge over the Yangtze near the Three Gorges Dam

 
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Now we are preparing to enter the right hand lock - waiting for the ship ahead to get settled - meanwhile some lighters with coal are coming out heading downstream - note from the size of the cut in the mountain on either side what a huge earth moving project this is.

 
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The lighter laden with coal is passing us headed down stream - note they are hosing the coal down to prevent spontaneous combustion.

 
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Now we are entering the huge lock at the Three Gorges Dam

 
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Photo taken when standing in the bow looking back and up at the crowd gathered on the observation section of the upper deck - Everyone is enjoying the view of the lock.

 
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We are up tight in the lock behind two rather non-descript river ships.

 
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The swing doors of the lock are enormous.

 
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Another ship is coming into the lock next to us from behind.

 
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An empty lighter going upstream for more coal.

 
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The upstream doors of the first lock are opening - we will move into the next section and be raised more.

 
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Now we are in the second lock

 
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We have been raised and now the outer door on the upstream side has opened - we will be on our way through the river gorges.

 
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Here we are emerging from the lock and entering onto the huge lake formed behind the dam.

 
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View back as we emerge from the upstream lock - looking at the adjacent down stream lock

 
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And there is the upstream side of the Three Gorges Dam as we clear the lock gaining way. Notice how far below the top of the dam the water level is today. That indicated how much further the river will be rising.

 
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One final look at the great dam fading into the distance.

 
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We have not left the lake by the dam when we pass a container ship headed down stream. With the improved navigation on the Yangtze the Chinese are manufacturing products well into western China and shipping them direct with containers straight through the ports to Europe and America.

 
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Moving upstream from the dam we immediately encounter the relocated towns and indications of the future height of the water level.

 
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Here tourist cruise ships are moored upstream - but note how much higher the water level will be within a year or two. The relocation of whole towns cost as much as the direct expense of the dam itself.

 
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Look at all the lighers loaded with coal waiting their turns to pass through the locks going down stream to China's power plants and steel mills.

 
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We are entering the upper part of the long Xiling Gorge - it has many fanciful names for sections - Meirandao, Kongling Gorge, Ox liver and Horse Lungs Gorge, Rice Granary Gorge.

 
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Fog is setting in as we pass through a narrow section.

 
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Enjoying the scenery as we move along

 
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More lighters waiting to load - and a small ferry boat that operates across the river.

 
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Here the cliffs seem to close in on us. But already the river level has eliminated the rapids. This journey in times past was much more of an adventure. There were lengthy rapids over which the rushing water foamed and cascaded. Gangs of workers walked along the banks pulling the ships that dared to try over the rapids. Now transportation on the Yangtze is greatly expanded.

 
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It is not near nightfall but already the haze and smog is reducing visibility as we enter another gorge.

 
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It is not near nightfall but already the haze and smog is reducing visibility as we enter another gorge.

 
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The mountain peaks are lost into the haze - note the mark of previous flood levels along the river bank.

 
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We are rounding a bend in the Yangtze.

 
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A sheer cliff looms above the river .

 
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In this gorge we pass another coal lighter headed down stream.

 
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Interesting formations in the rocks above us.

 
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Preparting to round another bend in the Yangtze - note the water mark from flood levels. The hillsides are cultivated as well.

 
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The river is wide now, even through this gorge, thanks to the much increased water level from the dam. The river is busy also.

 
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We pass another town already moved higher on the hillside. But the cross river ferry boat landing remains of course where ever the river hight dictates. Note the channels for run off from high on the hillside

 
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Another town with freshly built apartment houses higher on the hill side.

 
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Everything is being movede up hill- but there is still cultivation as long as possible. What do the signs mean?

 
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Now we are entering the second of the narrow gorge areas - the WU Gorge - with its many fancifully named peaks. Again this gorge is nothing like what it was prior to the construction fo the dams.

 
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The stratigraphy of these cliffs is interesting in itself - sometimes layers of sedimentary rock and sometimes granite in massive blocs.

 
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We are about to pass a tributary river of which there are many flowing down these side canyons.

 
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The Wu gorge closes in on us.

 
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Another cliff and peak with a different stratigraphy.

 
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The gorge widens out and we see another new town with a busy ferry boat landing. What do so many local inhabitants do in such a rugged area? Perhaps they work in the coal mines, of which we will see several shortly.

 
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Another tributary and a bridge across it. This may be the Shennong Stream and the town just passed may be Guandukou

 
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We are passing another lighter - this one a truck ferry taking loaded trucks up stream.

 
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Overtaking the same load of trucks - This may be Guandukou again.

 
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Overtaking the same load of trucks - This may be Guandukou again.

 
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Passing another lighter - this one appears to carry oil or gasoline.

 
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We pass anothe town and cruise boat - this may be Badong. - note the temple.

 
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Entering a double bend in the river we see a new bridge.

 
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Another new bridge across the Yangtze

 
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Another town moved up the hill side.

 
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More modern construction for the millions of people moved up the hill sides.

 
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A new bridge serves a new town.

 
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Seeing such large modern complexes along mountainous sections of the Yangtze is suprising. Note the care to riprap the bank.

 
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Another of these great looking new bridges spanning the Yangtze - part of the development of new towns above the future height of the river.

 
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Passing another of the many coal laden lighters, as we enter another part of the WU gorge.

 
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Forested hill side in the WU gorge

 
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Coming to another bend in the river as we pass through the gorge.

 
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One of the many waterfalls - but what is that beside it? And it looks like a path has been cut into the hillside as well.

 
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The numerous peaks along this stretch have fanciful names such as Iron Coffin Rock, Kongming Pai,

 
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Passing one of the many tributaries of the Yangtze - note the cultivated hillside hig above.

 
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Looking back over the stern at the section of Wu gorge

 
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Another tributary enters through a very narrow canyon - a village and its fields far up the hill.

 
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Here a road winds its way along the hillside which appears to have been deforested

 
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Here a larger tributary enters through a wider gorge.

 
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Now we are coming to a section of the Wu gorge with the tallest mountain peaks.

 
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Passing very close to the cliffs in a narrow section - note the stratigraphy here is different.

 
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Here a farmer has created a terraced area above his lonely home - It seems he has water taxi service, however.

 
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Again close to the cliff in the next narrow section - much different rock formation here.

 
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Moving on up stream - looking behind on the right is the farmer's home and on the left the sheer cliff side.

 
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A narrow side crevice - possibly a rock slide here exposed the yellow face

 
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Passing another lighter loaded with the long international containers. The Yangtze now has opened up the Sichuan basin to manufacturing and commerce with the world.

 
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Another tributary

 
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Here we pass a very interesting location- one the cliff face several bins have been built to hold coal that is delivered by truck from mines further up this canyon. The coal is then dropped into barges for transport down river - Note the drainage pipes from the bins to allow rain water to escape.

 
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Passing a lonely small craft - if the fellow fishing or simply traveling to or from home?

 
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What is the purpose of these buildings along this cliff side road. A rest stop? Note the road continues deep into the side canyon. Is there a town beyond those mountains?

 
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Another issolated cliff side dwelling - not the electric or telephone line. Note the path down to the river side. But what do the inhabitants do for a living?

 
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Another cliff side coal mine with loading bins and here a ship is being loaded. A very impressive operation. China indeed lives on coal.

 
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Another view of this coal loading operation - note the electric lines and roads.

 
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Continuing through the Wu gorge - note the navigation marker on the left bank.

 
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Another rock formation in the Wu Gorge.

 
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Another traveler on the river - it appears he does not want to use his outboard motor but oars instead.

 
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These fantastical peaks have equally fantastic names - This is the Shennu (Goddess ) Peak

 
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These fantastical peaks have equally fantastic names - This is the Shennu (Goddess ) Peak on the right - it is 500 meters above the river. Legend has it that this is the Petrified image of Yao Ji, a celestial being who came down to earth to save the people from floods created by the dragons playing in the river.

 
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These fantastical peaks have equally fantastic names - This is the Shennu (Goddess ) Peak on the right - it is 500 meters above the river. Legend has it that this is the Petrified image of Yao Ji, a celestial being who came down to earth to save the people from floods created by the dragons playing in the river.

 
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A view from a different angle.

 
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Another issolated village in the Wu gorge - It has electric lines and possibly a road above, but communication is by the river. These appear to be new homes perhaps the locals were moved up from closer to the river. Note the terraces on the left.

 
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Is this a hotel - a rest home - or restaurant or all of these?

 
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Another cliff high above the river.

 
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Traffic on the river - a lighter and vehicle ferry.

 
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Is this a retaining wall to bloc land slides out of this narrow crevice?

 
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We are approaching a graceful bridge spanning the Yangtze.

 
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Another mountainside village with nearby fields.

 
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Another coal loading site -with a chute to the river and roads cut into the cliffs to reach the coal mines. But the river level will soon rise to the location of the chute.

 
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Passing under another bridge across the Yangtze.

 
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There magnificent bridges, along with the mountain roads, open the interior to commerce and enable to villages moved into the hills to reach the outside.

 
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There magnificent bridges, along with the mountain roads, open the interior to commerce and enable to villages moved into the hills to reach the outside. Here we are almost through the Wu Gorge and it is close to night fall.

 
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The evening entertainment on the Victoria line cruse includes the staff doubling as models of Chinese costumes.

 
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The evening entertainment on the Victoria line cruse includes the staff doubling as models of Chinese costumes.

 
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The evening entertainment on the Victoria line cruse includes the staff doubling as models of Chinese costumes.

 
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The evening entertainment on the Victoria line cruse includes the staff doubling as models of Chinese costumes.

 
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The evening entertainment on the Victoria line cruse includes the staff doubling as models of Chinese costumes. And this ends the day's travel through the Xiling and Wu Gorges and the visit to the Three Gorges dam. In the morning we are aWushan and cruise up the Daning river.

 
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After that diversion for the enjoyable cruise up the Daning River we are now back on the Yangtze and continuing toward Chongquing Lots of traffic here loading on river ferry boats. This is part of new Wushan. Note the banks are being prepared for the river's rise.

 
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More of the new construction of Wushan above the future level of the river.

 
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Another view of Wushan under construction.

 
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Another coal loading complex. Apparently here the coal is trucked in from back in the mountains.

 
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Passing terraced hillsides upriver from Wushan. We are about to enter the third gorge - the Qutang, which is the shortest but with very high peaks on either side.

 
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The entrance to the Qutang Gorge - It has more fanciful mountain peaks and sections of the gorge itself - Unlocked Gates Gorge, Bellows Gorge, Rhinoceros Looking at the Moon peak, Drinking Phoenix spring, Meng Liang Stairway. _ At the other end we may see Baidicheng - The White King City high on the ridge overlooking the river.

 
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Many passengers gather on the forward observation decks to enjoy the scenery in the Qutang Gorge.

 
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Along the cliff side in the Qutang Gorge there was a trail cut for the gangs of workers who hauled the ships through the rapids. But these are lost beneath the river now, along with the rapids as well.

 
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The gorge narrows with steep cliffs close at hand.

 
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The cave is occupied - note the stairs to the river. Note also the navigation marker on the cliff side.

 
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Here there is a road cut into the cliff and some signs for travelers - maybe Burmashave?

 
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Kuimen - the narrow opening on the upriver - western - end of the Qutang Gorge - pavilons overlooking the river - calligraphy inscribed on the cliffs. During the Song Dynasty the river was blocked to traffic by a chain in order for the officials to collect tolls. A part of Baidicheng appears at upper left.

 
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In this view we can see more of the fortifications of Baidicheng - The White King City - high on the crest above. It was the fortress of Liu Bei, King of Shu in the Three Kingdoms Period (3rd century AD) and is a museum today.

 
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We cruise west, out of the Qutang Gorge and immediately come to Fengjie - a major market town already in the Ming Dynasty during which it was walled with fortified gates. In ancient times there were wider flat lands next to the river here on which armies could train.

 
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A new bridge at Fengjie across a tributary stream in preparation for the river's expected rise.

 
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At Fengli - a major coal loading complex.

 
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More of Fengli now high on the hillside above the coal bins.

 
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Extensive construction work required to enable this building to be at the future height of the river.

 
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Looking back at the coal loading operation at Fengjie.

 
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As we pass Fenjie we see another of the numerous river boats loaded with international containers.

 
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A remaining section of the Ming Dynasty medieval fortress walls and gate of Fenglie - NOTE - on the right one of the many signs that indicates where the river will be when it reaches its 175 meter level.

 
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Beyond the Ming fortress walls, Fenjie city now has new walls prepared for the time the river rises. The docks will rise with it.

 
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A shipyard a thousand miles from the sea.

 
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We pass another city - note the river bank is being prepared for the rise in water level.

 
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The current and forthcoming rise in water level is displacing over a million people - but at least it also is resulting in new construction.

 
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Not sure which city this is - probably Zhongxian - but perhaps Wanxian - at any rate lots of new construction.

 
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Further along passing Zhongxian

 
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Passing a waterfall. We stop next at Fengdu - the Ghost City.

 
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We are back on the river after our visit to Fengdu - the "Ghost City" and here is another cruise ship.

 
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Passing under another bridge just upsteam from Fengdu. Here a major highway crosses the Yangtze.

 
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The highway along the river also requires many bridges to cross the canyons and tributaries.

 
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We pass a dredge.

 
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Tourists are invited to the bridge to observe the navigation.

 
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Another shipyard even further from the ocean at Fuling.

 
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Beginning to pass Fuling - view from the ship bridge.

 
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Another view of navigation on the ship bridge - the officers are intent and don't let the visitors distract them on moment.

 
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Industrial part of Fuling. This river port of 150,000 inhabitants was the capital of the ancient Ba kingdom and location of their tombs now under water.

 
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Industrial part of Fuling.

 
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Another river cruise ship.

 
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We are catching up with another cruise ship and approaching another new bridge location.

 
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Another shipyard - and two oil lighters.

 
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A pier of a new bridge that is being constructed

 
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Another city and another bridge. - it is getting dark on our last night for the cruise

 
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A new bridge at Changshou

 
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Another major city - Changshou?

 
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Is this a resort or rest home?

 
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Extensive commerce - loading and unloading coal and gravel.

 
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Continuing to pass Changshou

 
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Continuing to pass Changshou

 
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yet another bridge high above the river now.

 
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The lower buildings are being destroyed in preparation for the river's rise.

 
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More river traffic at dusk.

 
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New construction above the future water level - a ship being unloaded or loaded.

 
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A ship being loaded via a converor belt.

 
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More river traffic at a large industrial area.

 
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More river traffic at a large industrial area.

 
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More river traffic at a large industrial area.

 
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More river traffic at a large industrial area.

 
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Passing another bridge near nightfall.

 
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A large industrial area

 
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A very large river ferry taking trucks down the river - passing under the new bridge.

 
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Another large shipyard - the ramp will soon be under water.

 
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Another large shipyard - the ramp will soon be under water.

 
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Here we are at Chongqing - early morning and a heavy rain - but the porters are carrying everyone's luggage ashore. This view from the balcony of our cabin.

 
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Here we are at Chongqing - early morning and a heavy rain - but the porters are carrying everyone's luggage ashore. This view from the balcony of our cabin.

 
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Here we are at Chongqing - early morning and a heavy rain - but the porters are carrying everyone's luggage ashore. This view from the balcony of our cabin.

 
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Here we are at Chongqing - early morning and a heavy rain - but the porters are carrying everyone's luggage ashore. This view from the balcony of our cabin.

 
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The scene in the reception area of the Victoria line cruise ship as porters load themselves with luggage and tourists mill around waiting for their call.

 

Return to Xenophon.