KITAI-GOROD
Micha Jelisavcic
John Sloan
The oldest part of Moscow is the Kitai Gorod (fortified city) that lay
opposite Red Square where GUM, the Rossia Hotel and the buildings behind them
are now. It is the region of Moscow immediately adjacent to the Kremlin's east
side. There are several ideas about the origin of the name. The name comes from
the Russian word for poles (kit) used to strengthen the walls. In medieval Rus
this part of Moscow came to be the locale for craftsmen and tradesmen and was
known as the Large Settlement. It was crossed by the Great Street. It was
defended from early times by the fortified Nikol'skii and Bogoiavlenskii
monasteries. In the late 14th century an earthen wall was constructed between
the Moscow and Neglinnaia rivers to serve as its outer defense line. In 1534 by
order of the regent, Yelena Glinskaya, widow of Tsar Vasilii III and mother of
Ivan IV, a regular wooden palisade on earthen rampart behind a deep ditch was
constructed along the line of the modern Square of the Revolution, Teatral'nii
and Kitaiskii streets and the bank of the Moskva River. The entire population
of Moscow less the nobility and court clerks was turned out to create this in a
few month's time. Between 1535 and 1538 this was replaced by stone walls six
meters thick and six meters high with 13 towers. The walls had three rows of
firing ports and a parapet from which defenders could fire. Gradually the
Kitai-gorod was occupied by the mansions of the wealthy boyars and by
government buildings and the artisans moved out to the next suburb. This in
turn was surrounded by yet another fortified city wall. The Kitai-gorod was
burned by the Polish occupying forces in 1610 and again during the French
occupation of 1812. The region became the commercial center of Moscow in the
18th century. A commercial market has occupied the site of the present GUM
department store since at least 1786. Its wall and gates remained until well
into the 20th century, but today only a very short section remains near
Teatralnaya Square behind the Metropole Hotel and by Kitaiski Proezd at
Varvarka Street. During their reconstruction of the older, run-down parts of
Moscow, the Soviet rulers tore down practically all of the parts of the
medieval city wall that remained after Catherine II tore down most of it.
GUM
Opposite the Kremlin and facing Red Square is a huge building, erected in
1890-1894 for the "Trade stalls" to replace the very old one which
dated from 1595 and had become unsafe, though it had been restored the last
time in 1815 by Bove (Beauvais). For centuries this area and the Red Square had
been the main Moscow trade center, though this was often not to the liking of
the grand dukes and tsars, whose main entrance to their Kremlin palaces was
just opposite. One reason for building new "Stalls" under the roof
was to eliminate the practice of trading at the square itself. The building is
presently known as GUM, an abbreviation for Gosudarstvenii Universalnii Magazin
(State department store), and it was designed by a professor of the Academy, A.
N. Pomerantsev. He won a first prize for it, though he did not follow the
conditions of the special commission, established to clean the area and take
care of the construction, which demanded "Sparing construction
expenditures and elegance in architectural forms." Nevertheless,
Pomerantsev used marble and granite and decorated the exterior of the building
with several old Russian elements, primarily borrowed from ancient Rostov
architecture. A novelty was the great use of iron, reinforced concrete and
glass, with which the roof of this huge building was covered. The latter work
being that of an engineer, V. G. Shukhov. Go to
Church of the Trinity (Troitskaya Tserkov)
A red-and-white brick edifice that dates from the 17th century, when the
Nikitkov merchant family financed its construction after the original wooden
church burnt down. It's located in the Kitai Gorod. The church's beautiful
frescoes, based on Old and New Testament stories, indicate that traditional
Muscovite art had just encountered the humanist influence of the Western
Renaissance, with its emphasis on perspective. The icon of St. Nikita, which
the merchant Nikitkov is said to have saved from the destruction of the
original church, remains in the church.
Nikolskoya Street
There are three streets through Kitai Gorod from Red Square to the old
wall. On Nikolskoya is the Zaikovo-Spassky Monastery, founded by Boris Gudunov
in 1600. Its cathedral was completed in 1661. The old Printer Yard, established
in the early 16th century is also on this street.
Ilyinka Street
This is in the central postion between and parallel the other two. It
remains a busy street today. A walk through this area shows the extensive
construction and rehabilitation going on. And the high-class store windows are
full of western merchandise.
Varvarka Street
The Varvarka (called Razin Street under the Communists) is an old Moscow
street whose name has become that of an entire district. Its name derived from
the peach-colored St. Barbara's Church that dominates the quarter. The church
is located at the end of the street nearest to St Basil's. On the right side as
one enters the street from that end, the scene is marred by the massive
presence of the Rossia hotel. But tucked neatly under its looming facade are
some of the most interesting medieval buildings in the city complete with
golden cupolas, steeply pitched wooden roofs in the Old Russian style and
belltowers. The narrow street is lined with old churches. First comes St
Barbara for which the street is named, built by Aleviso Novi in 1514 and rebult
in 1796. Then comes the English residence, given by Ivan IV in 1556 to the
first group of English merchants who reached the city via Arkangelsk. Then one
sees the Church of St Maxim the Greek, dating from 1698 with a bell tower from
1829. The House of the Romanov Boyars dates from 1565-67, when they were one of
the several families vying for favor with Ivan IV. It is the birthplace of the
future Tsar Mikhail Romanov. The property was restored by Alexander II and
displays charming Old Russian furnishings and tiled stoves. Then there is the
Monastery of the Apparition with its five-dome cathedral of the 17th century
designed by Matvei Kazakov in 1789. St. George's Church dates from 1658. The
Church of the Conception of St. Anne is from the 15th century. The Church of
All Saints in Nogina square was built by Dmitri Donskoi in 1380 to celebrate
his victory at Kulikovo.
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