UGLICH - RUSSIA

Micha Jelisavcic
John Sloan

Here we have photos taken in 2003 and a short historical description. We also have more photos taken in 2005. The town was founded in 1148, but there are indications the location was inhabited at least from the late 10th century. While never a major urban or commercial center, it was locally important in the 13th and 14th centuries. In the early 13th century it was part of the Rostov principality and later became independent. It was destroyed by the Tatars in 1237 and 1284. Ivan I bought it from the Tatars in 1375 and joined it to the Muscovite domains. It was the home base of Prince Dmitri Shemiyaka, cousin and rival of Vasilii II as grand prince of Moscow. Dmitri had Vasilii blinded and exiled to Uglich. With Tatar help Vasilii regained his throne.
Ivan IV considered it one of his favorite towns and presented it as appanage for his youngest son, Dmitri. After Ivan's death, Dmitri and his mother, Maria were banished to Uglich in 1584 on orders of his half-brother, Tsar Feodor. The young boy was found dead with his throat cut in the palace courtyard in 1591. Suspicion immediately fell on Feodor's brother-in-law and chief advisor, Boris Gudunov. This was adroitly fanned by Boris's enemies the Shuiski clan. But Boris' guilt has never been proven. Nevertheless it figured in Russian literature. Despite the popular unrest and condemnation of Boris for Dmitri's death, the populace or a large part of it were ready to accept the claims of a series of "false Dmitris" After Boris died Russia was swept up in the "Time of Troubles" during which the first of these characters actually claimed the throne and was crowned. Mussorgski presumed Boris' guilt as the basis of his opera, Boris Gudunov. Vasilii Shuiski had served on the commission that investigated Dmitri's death and had originally exonerated Boris, then he turned about and supported this 'false Dmitri', then he led the riots that deposed him and finally he managed to get himself proclaimed Tsar, only to be deposed himself shortly after.
During the "Time of Troubles" - Smutnoi vremini - Uglich was the scene of many battles between Poles and Russians. The Poles besieged the Alekseyevsky Monastery here in 1609 and burned it down killing all the populace who had sought refuge inside. Michael Romanov attempted to revive the town, but it has remained rather an economic backwater ever since.
Today medieval Uglich is especially impressive when seen from the Volga. On the spot where Dmitri was murdered the city in 1690 built the small but lovely Church of Prince Demetrius on the Blood, which appears on the horizon with its red walls and blue domes as one sails north on the Volga. A wooden chapel was erected on the spot soon after the death. It was replaced by a larger church in 1630 and this gave way to the stone edifice in 1690. Inside the frescos depict the events of Dmitri's death. The five-domed Transfiguration Cathedral is the largest structure on the kremlin grounds. Nothing remains of the medieval wooden kremlin walls. The palace built by Andri Bolshoi, Ivan III's brother replaced the kremlin in 1480. Today there is an interesting museum in the palace. Among the items is the bell from the Transfiguration Cathedral that rung the news of Dmitri's death. Boris Gudunov conducted an investigation of the incident and exiled the bell to Siberia after cutting out its tongue (clapper), whereupon it was duly registered as an inannament exile from Uglich. In 1892, after strenuous campaigning, the people of Uglich managed to get their bell back from Tobolsk.
The Monastery of the Resurrection (Voskresenski) (1674-77) and Church of the Nativity of St. John dating from 1689 are near the Volga. The largest building in the monastery is the Voskresenski Cathedral and there are also other churches and a bell tower and refectory. Much older is the Alekseyevski Monastery founded by Metropolitan Aleksei at the behest of Dmitri Donskoi in 1371 as a fortification to protect the city. It was rebuilt, after the fire, and in 1628 the Uspenskaya Divnaya (Wonderful Assumption) Church with its 3 octagonal spires and onion domes was added. It is a fine example of 16th century Russian architecture.
The Monastery of the Epiphany (Bogoyavlensky) was moved from the kremlin in 1661 to its location on the road to Rostov Veliki. It is a women's monastery (convent) It has three churches, Smolenskaya Bogomateri (Smolensk Icon of the Blessed Virgin) (1700), Fyodorovskaya Bogomateri (Fyodor Icon of the Blessed Virgin) (1818) and the huge Bogoyavleniye Gospodnya (Epiphany of the Lord) Cathedral (1853).

Tserkov' Dimitriya, chto na krovi at Uglich.

The period from the death of Ivan the Terrible in 1584 to the election of Mikhail Romanov to the tsardom in 1613 is known as the "Troubled Times" (Smutnoe Vremia) or simply the "Upheaval" (Smuta). Actually, the date of Tsar Fedor's death in 1598 is more appropriate to mark the starting point of the deep crisis and dynastic changes that Russia underwent, because with his death came an end to the first Russian dynasty, the Riurikids. Fedor I was Ivan's son by his first wife, Anastasia Romanovna. Fedor I succeeded his father in 1584 and nominally ruled the country until he died in 1598. The weak-minded, very pious and childless Fedor was not interested in "The secular nuisance," as he called governing the country, and preferred to spend most of his time praying, visiting monasteries and ringing church bells. The real power behind him was his brother-in law, boyar Boris Godunov who was elected Russian Tsar after his sister Irene renounced the throne and entered a monastery. Palace intrigue resumed, and Boris Godunov managed in the end to eliminate all his opponents and govern the country in the name of his brother-in-law Tsar Fedor. Fedor I was the last direct royal member of the Rurik family. In 1591 his half-brother, the ten-year old Tsarevich Dimitrii, son of Ivan the Terrible by his seventh wife, Maria Nagoi, was found dead in the garden in front of the small house in Uglich, where he was confined with his mother. He died under mysterious circumstances.
The mystery of his death was never explained and the rumors that Boris' agents liquidated him were readily accepted by the people throughout Russia, creating a favourable ground for the legend which made out of Godunov a real villain. Godunov, a capable statesman with good intentions, was very similar to the Godunov represented by both Pushkin and Mussorgsky.
People have believed that Boris was involved in Dimitri's death probably because, in 1598, a few months after the death of Tsar Fedor, he was elected to the throne by the "Zemskii Sobor," an assembly representing most social groups.
Close to the house at the northern corner of the fortress overlooking the curving river Volga, a church was built by Tsar Mikhail on the site where the bloodied body of the tsarevich Dimitri was found.

The Church of the Assumption at Uglich.

While speaking of tent shaped churches it would be unfair not to mention the Church of the Assumption of the former Alekseyevskii Monastery at Uglich. This very fine and original specimen of ancient Russian architecture was built of bricks, not wood, in 1628, or perhaps before by unknown masters. Nor is there any information concerning who commissioned the Church. It is hard to believe that most of the old-monasteries, former centers of literacy and education, did not preserve data about the talented men who erected their best monuments or about those who offered money for their construction. Unfortunately, during and after the revolution most of the monks were chased out of the monasteries and their books destroyed or burned. One should go to Uglich or to any other monastery that has not been visited by tourists or foreigners to see how dilapidated and miserable they can become.
The same happened to the Alekseyevskii Monastery and its "Marvelous" (Divnaya) Church of the Assumption, an epithet that the simple people gave to their church and which became a part of its official name. The rectangular church with decorative kokoshniki was built on a high basement. Instead of ending in a normal roof the vertical line continues. Two smaller octagons, one on each side, and a larger one in the middle, each carry the eight slopes of a tall pyramid which end in a drum crowned with a cupola and a cross. On the east side of the church there are three apses, decorated with a band of ornamental blind arcades; the second jamb of each ends in a pendant. On the west is the refectory (trapeznaya) with its original single pier in the middle, carrying for cross vaults that span the entire room. After the revolution this unique church was ransacked and left to decay, sharing the destiny of thousands of others. Only in the late fifties did Soviet authorities decide to do something to save it from collapsing.

Photos and description

	Link	Description
		View of Uglich while approaching on the Volga River
		It is already late on a summer afternoon when we approach Uglich by river cruise ship. Fortunately it is light at this lattitude until quite late. Here we see, left to right, the Church of Prince Dmitri on the Blood, the Palace, the Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral, the Belfry, Tower of the Voskresenski Monastery, and The Church of John the Baptist.
		A telephoto view of the Church of Prince Dmitri, the Palace and the Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral with its belltower.
		Here we show the ruin of a fine building (an estate?) close by the Volga next to the lock above Uglich.
		The walking tour takes us past a private home, somewhat better than average in this village.
		The city square with shops on the ground floor of this fine building
		This lovely home is between the city square and the dock on the path leading across the bridge.
		It is not too far to walk to the Cathedral of the Voskresenski Monastery
		The Cathedral takes on a different aspect from the other side, especially since the sun is so low. From here we can see the side of the bell tower.
		Here is a detailed view of the upper part of the Cathedral
		The Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist (Precursor) is close to the river bank. What a lovely tent-shaped bell tower.
		Here is a close-up view of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
		Here is another view of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
		From this side we see the bell tower in front of the church of the Nativity of John the Baptist with a full view of the porch stairs.
		The Church of the Nativity of St John the Baptist is too photogenic to pass up
		We will walk away from this church eventually.
		From this side we get the full sunlight on the domes and upper story of the church.
		One must walk across town to view this, the Cathedral of the Bogayevlenski Monastery seen here in 1998
		The Cathedral of the Bogayevlenski Monastery is being repaired. One can barely make out the remanants of the frescos in 1998.
		Here is the church next door to the Bogayevleniye Gospodnya cathedral - It is the Smolenskaya Icon of the Bogomatri church also part of the Bogoyavlenski women's convent. in 1998.
		Bogoyavleniye Gospodnya Cathedral built in 1853 for the Bogoyavlenski (Epiphany woman's convent) - in 2003 much repaired since 1998.
		Bogoyavlenski woman's convent
		Bogoyavleeniye Gospodnya (Epiphany of our Lord) cathedral in the Bogoyavlenski women's convent.
		Feodorovski Bogomateri church built in 1818 for the Bogoyavlenski woman's convent.
		Smolenskaya Bogomateri Church in the Bogoyavlenski women's convent - built in 1700
		Interior - ceiling fresco - in Smolenskaya Bogomateri Church of the Bogoyavlenski women's convent.
		Interior - ceiling fresco - in Smolenskaya Bogomateri Church of the Bogoyavlenski women's convent.
		Interior - ceiling fresco - in Smolenskaya Bogomateri Church of the Bogoyavlenski women's convent.
		Interior - ceiling fresco - in Smolenskaya Bogomateri Church of the Bogoyavlenski women's convent.
		Young singers chanting liturgy in Old Slavonic for visitors.
		Monastery of St Alexis is the oldest in Uglich, founded in 1371 by Alexis, Metropolitan of All Russia. This is the Church of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin built in 1628 and universally known as the Divnaya (Wonderous) Church with its three tent spires..
		Monastery of St Alexis - the long refectory building and the Church of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin known as the Divnaya - Wonderous - Church.
		Monastery of St Alexis - The Church of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin.
		Tent style roof detail of the Church of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin.
		Detail of monastery of St Alexis church of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin.
		We are now back by the river near the palace and this is the Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral as it appeared in 1998
		The bell tower of the Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral is close beside it.
		Here we see the Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathedral from the other side as it appeared in 1998.
		The Spaso-Preobrazhenski Cathdral in 2003 - what a difference 5 years has made.
		Bell tower has not also been painted and restored.
		Detail of upper part of the Cathedral.
		This is the entrance porch with stairs for the Palace begun in 1480 for Prince Andri Bolshoi, brother of Ivan III.
		From here we see the side of the palace, the porch is on the left behind the trees.
		Shortly after the ship departs from Uglich we pass the riverside village, Kabanova.
		And in Kabanova we see another of the many churches along the Volga
		It is dusk when we pass the Church of Boris and Gleb in Mishkino
		And here is the church in Pruluki, which to tell the truth we passed before reaching Uglich.

Return to Xenophon. Return toRuscity. Return to Rushistory. Return to Ukraine. Please leave a note at our guestbook.