SUDAK

Micha Jelisavcic
George Page
John Sloan

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Brief Description

Layout of main structures

The defensive works consisted of two walls with supporting towers. All construction used local materials, grey limestone, sandstone and cockleshells. The character of the masonry allows us to presume that the Genoese employed local masons, who are also mentioned in the documents. The fortification was erected with the use of cannon in mind, as cannon was coming into use in late medieval Europe of the 14th century. The design conformed to defensive and offensive means of the time when firearms were only beginning. The majority of the defensive structures remain to our time, but some have been repaired or reconstructed. The fortress has two lines. The lower surrounded the town and defended it from enemies. The upper was the citadel and served as the administrative place as well as for defense in case the outer wall was penetrated. But the port was outside these works. It was at the beach south of the fortress mountain and protected from direct attack by an auxiliary wall and towers that blocked the narrow passage between the fortress and the next mountain to the south.
The lower wall is remarkable for its length, over two kilometers. It is in the form of an irregular triangle consisting of massive wall of 6 to 8 meters height and 2 meters thick. It was constructed on a gentle slope near the base of the hill and does not command the adjacent terrain outside the fort. The wall was reenforced by 14 towers (bastions) of open and closed types. One tower is half circular in plan, the rest are rectangular and for the most part have three levels. Of three towers only the foundations remain. Of one other only the lower level remains. The original height of the towers reached 15 meters. The walls have loopholes and in front of the wall there was a moat. The wall rests on the north-east end on a cliff by the sea (towers # 11 and # 12). On the southeast end it is on a ridge over looking the road down to the medieval port. The final tower at this end (# 24) was connected to a tower on the opposite ridge (# 22) by a wall that blocked this road. There was a gate in this wall for the road to the port. This tower was also connected to the end of the upper wall by a wall that has now practically disappeared. Many towers arenamed after the consul who was contemporary with construction and we find their names in Latin inscriptions on stone plaques with heraldric crests from Genoa, Soldai, Kafa and other places.
The main gate entrance to the fortification was located in the middle part of the lower wall at the northwest corner, actually a curved section. It consisted of a large gate under twin towers ( # 2, # 3) and a drawbridge over the moat, covered by a fortified bridgehead (barbican) (# 1). The gate is flanked on the west by the Jakobo Torsello Tower and on the east by the Bernabo di Franki di Pagano Tower, sited at an obtuse angle to each other to give the opportunity in case of necessity to deliver crossfire on all the area before the gate. The over the opening in the gate is an arch coming out of the tower walls at a height of 10.9 meters and supporting a connecting walk between them. In front of the gate is a plaque inscribed with the date of construction, 1389. The gate was closed by a wooden grill (portculus) reenforced by iron coverings. The main gate with attached towers and the bridgehead is the central composition of the lower wall. From the gate the walls extend on each side in two directions toward the seacoast. They form an obtuse angle. There are eight towers in the northeast wall; Bernabo de Franki di Pagano, Pasquali Dzhudich, Unnamed, Round, Lukini de Flisko Lavoni, Corrado Chikalo, and two destroyed towers. In the northwest wall there are six towers; Jakobo Torsello, Corner, Giovanni Marione, Gvarko Rumbal'do, Unnamed and one destroyed.
The upper wall forms a much more powerful inner defense line (# 15 - # 19) at the very top of a steep slope. It consists of the citadel fortress, the Consul's Castle, a wall, two towers (Georgievski and Upper Unnamed, and the Dozorni Tower. The part of the upper wall on the south side from the Upper Unnamed Tower across the face of the cliff to the Corner Tower in the lower wall is almost completely destroyed. There is no more than 10-15 yards between this wall and the sheer cliff over 100 meters straight down to the sea. This is a (view of fortress from a ridge as one approaches from the north. Here is another view showing the entire northeast wall as well as the upper wall and the towers.
Inside the fortress were streets, living quarters, business places, depots, and cultural edifices. Now all that remains on a bare hillside are the mosque, a ruined church, a cistern, and several underground supply storehouses. Below and beside the fortress in the cove southwest of the fortress hill was a ancient port and town. The buildings here are now gone, except for a Byzantine church and the Frederiko Astagver Tower that anchored the defensive wall.
We begin the visit at the main entrance gate with its two towers. outside barbican. And gate under two towers. The gate is defended by the Jakobo Torsello (# 2) and Bernabo di Franki (# 3) Towers. The barbican is a horse shoe shaped semi-circular wall attached to the western side of the two towers. It strengthened the gate defense with its drawbridge over a moat. Only the foundation was remaining except on the northern side, but it is much reconstructed now.
Jakobo Torsello Tower. (# 2) Bernabo di Franki di Pagano Tower (# 3)
They were built to strengthen the defense of the main gate. They are three stories high. Together they provide cross fire covering the barbican. The Jakobo Torsello Tower was built in 1385. On the northern wall is the plaque with date and inscription. It is three stories of open type with only three walls. Inside these there are projections at each level to support the wooden beams on which the cover (floor) rested. There were reenforcements in the walls to prevent their being burst in by the blows of enemy rams. The tower foundations were reenforced. In the tower lowest level there are cut loopholes that look like chinks. In the upper level there are rectangular embrasures with chambers. The tower is topped by machicolations and then teeth shaped merlons. To the west side there is an attached semicircular single story structure with the remains of fireplace. This likely was the guardroom. In 1972 archeological workers inside the tower at a depth of 5 meters uncovered fragments of the wall and tower of pre-Genoese construction. The north wall of the tower is attached to the wall of the barbican. Further restoration work was accomplished in 1977-79.
The Bernabo di Franki di Pagano Tower was built in 1414. The tower was built open on the rear as seen today to prevent use by attackers. (View from inside fortress of rear of towers.) And a close-up view. To the immediate south under the tower is the pre-Genoese foundation. On the northern wall of the Bernabo tower under the loopholes of the lower level there was a flagstone with dated inscription that is now located in the museum in Odessa. Between the levels there were wooden overhead covers (floor of one and ceiling of level below) The floors rested on wood beams that were resting on projections from the walls. The tower has machicolations. At the top level there were tooth-shaped merlons protecting the fighting area on the top floor. There were loopholes in the walls at the lower tier and in the upper tier there were four rectangular windows with embrasures and chambers within.
These two towers formed the center of the lower defensive wall. View of both towers from inside fortress. This view is outside the fortress showing the wall from the front edge of the barbican to the Pasquali tower and the round tower beyond.
Moving along the wall to the north-east we reach the Pasquali Dshudich Tower, (# 7) which was built in 1392. It is on the north-east section of the lower defense wall, about 100 meters from the Bernabo di Franki tower. The tower is also three stories and open in rear, so it has only three sides. There is a glazed flagstone in the west wall with dated inscription. The brickwork of the walls on the inner side is completed with projections for each level on which were laid the wooden beams carrying the floors. There are viewing loopholes in the walls of the lowest level. In the upper level there are rectanglar embrasures. There are shutters on the outside of the tower. At the top are the typical tooth-shaped merlons to protect the troops manning the top level. But now only a couple of the teeth remain in one corner. The fortress wall is united to this tower, which remains in better condition than most.
The Round Tower (# 8) is next. It was built in the 14th-15th centuries on the north east wall. It is the only half-round tower (irregular oval). Some experts believe it dates from the pre-Genoese period. It is open in the rear. The lower level remains intact. Of the second story only the base remains. The stonework shows that on the interior of the walls there were projections for beams to hold the second floor. This view from inside the fortress looks back past the round tower to the Pasquali tower and the gate towers.
The next tower, Lukini di Flisko Lavani, (#10) was built in 1409. It is located on the north east part of the lower wall 123 meters from the Round Tower. The wall connecting the two towers makes a significant curve between them. Between the towers in the walls are located four loopholes. But much of this section of the wall is destroyed. The tower is three stories. The lower level has four walls, but the upper levels have only three (open in rear). The brick work on the inside of the walls show the projections to carry the beams for the wooden floor covering the lowest level. On the second level there are stone lancets. Support for the top level floor is on projections from the walls. This is the only tower with this type of construction. The bottom level has four blank walls (no openings), and there are viewing loopholes with chambers on the second level. The third level has embrasures with chambers. The top of the tower has the usual tooth-shaped merlons. The east wall of the tower was almost completely destroyed as can be seen in this view over the wall. The Corrado Chkalo tower is to the right.
The Corrado Chikalo Tower (# 11) was built in 1404. It is located further long the north-east wall. At first it was the corner tower with an entrance from the wall that joined it to the south. The tower is of closed type and three stories and rectangular. On the first floor there was accomodation without windows. Most likely here was a supply dump of weapons and ammunition. The entrance to the first level is via a stairway inside the tower leading down from the second level. The entrance to the tower is via a doorway in the western wall at the second story, where in wartime the walls had a stone stairway. In the walls of the top floor there are viewing loopholes with chambers. On top are the usual merlons. The floors for the second and third levels were wooden. This view shows both towers. The tower was repaired in 1971.
The Unnamed tower (#12 ) located on the north east corner of the wall was built in 14th-15th centuries. It is two stories high and open on the rear and has only three walls. But it is complete with its merlons. The wooden beams for the upper floor rested on projections from the walls, but for the lower level they rested in sockets in the walls. The second level is connected to the fortress wall by a staircase.
The eastern side of the fortress was independent and could be defended separately. Part is seen in this detailed view. In the section between the unnamed tower and the Corrado Chikalo tower there were four loopholes in 30 meters. A series of loopholes were built in the fortress wall. In case the lower defensive wall was penetrated and the enemy gained entrance to the open space, fire from the Corrado Chikalo tower and the opposite Consul's castle (110 meters off) could cover this area.
Returning to the entrance gate we can then proceed along the north-west section of the lower wall.

We pass a ruined tower whose name is lost. It is 54 meters from the gate. Extensive archeological work was under way in this section as is seen in this view and again here and in a closeup. Then comes the Giovanni Marioni Tower (#27), built in 1388, 63 meters further on. It is located on the north-west part of the lower defense wall 107 meters from the Jakobo Torsello Tower (main gate). On its northern wall is a glazed stone plaque with date and inscription. Under the inscription on the heraldic shield there are three crests. The tower is three stories and open in rear, with only three walls. The brickwork on the inner side has the projections on which wood beams restted to carry the wooden floors. Some of the teeth of the merlons remain.
The Gvarko Rumbal'do Tower (#26) is next. It was built in 1394. The fortress wall 4 meters from the Giovanni Marione tower makes a corner turn of about 80 degrees toward the west and then through 15.5 meters of this corner to the south and after 57 meters is united with the Gvarko Rumbal'do tower. In the northern wall of the tower is a glazed plaque with Latin inscription. Under the text there are three crests on heraldric shields. One depicts a woman in medieval dress. The tower is three stories and open to the rear. It has three walls, but part of the southern wall is destroyed. The brickwork has projections for the beams for the floors. There are loopholes in the lower level and windows with embrasures in the upper level.
There is no surviving data on the next two towers. The next tower (Unnamed, # 25) was built in the 14th - 15th centuries. It is 65 meters from the Gvarko Rumbal'do tower. It was also three stories and open in the rear. Only the foundations remain and the northern wall is without its merlons. There is a plaque with date and inscription on the northern side.
The Corner Tower (#24) was built in 14th - 15th century. It is located on the south-west corner of the fortress. The tower is two stories and open in rear. This tower was joined to three walls, the outer wall from the north, the upper wall that crossed the mountain side and the wall that crossed the valley and protected the port. The brickwork inside the walls has projections for the beams to carry the floors. There are loopholes in the north and west walls. The merlons are atop the walls. This view shows the corner tower from outside the fortress. In 1971 it was repaired.
The Frederik Astagver (Portovaya) Tower (# 22 ) was built in 1386. It is located to the west of the corner tower in the lower wall and was connected to it by the wall across the entrance to the port. This photo shows parts of this wall and towers. On the eastern wall there is a plaque with date and inscription. Under the text are illustrated three crests on a heraldric shield. The tower is three floors and square in plan. It was destroyed on three sides, leaving only the northern wall. The brickwork has the projections on each level for supporting beams. There were loopholes in the second level walls and windows with embrasures on the top level. The entrance to the tower was from the walls connecting it with the Corner Tower. Probably the wall between the Astagver and Corner tower had a gate. Some experts consider that the assistant commandant lived in the Astagver tower. This indicates the importance of this tower in the overall defense of the fortress. This shows the Astagver tower now.
The Church of the Twelve Apostles (# 23) was built in the 14th-15th century. It is located below the fortress wall near the Astagver Tower. It is rectangular in plan. The walls are made of limestone and sandstone blocks with lime mortar. The apse has on the outside 5 borders with facings of well worked out stone designs. It is decorated with 3 carved rosettes. The interior was covered with frescos. Outside was a half circle of free standing banded arches of which only 5 arches remain.
After a climb to the upper defense wall we reach the Consul's tower, (#16) which was built in the 13th - 15th century. It is located on the crest on the sea side in the eastern part of the fortress. The donjon tower is the main part of the Consul's castle . The Consul's castle is the most interesting of the remaining parts of the fortress. It is the most important, most powerful fortification and occupies all the area for defense from the sea. The second powerful corner tower is located to the north east corner of the fortress. Both these towers are connected by the fortress wall forming the interior court in which the entrance is through a special platform with loopholes covering the door from fire. The Consul's tower was an independent, self sustaining fort and was connected by a bridge with the remaining part of the upper level of the defenses. There was located all that was necessary for conducting a prolonged defense and siege. The Consul's tower is square and four stories with simultaneous functions of living quarters, defense, supply of food, water reserves, and most likely an arsenal. On the first floor is located means for storage of food and a cistern for water. One of the ceramic pipes connecting to the cistern goes to the eastern wall and another to the western direction in the thickness of the wall itself. They were used to collect rain water. On the second and third floors the heating is from fireplaces. In the eastern wall of the second floor is a door by which one can go out only by a stairway to the court. The wide stone stairway by which now one enters the tower was built later. In the western wall of this quarters there is still another door, opening on the fortress wall and with the aid of a draw bridge connected to the wall. On the third floor there is a wide Venetian window. In the southern wall there is a door through which by a stairway one can pass directly to the third floor. The cover of the cistern is arched. The upper floor also is arched and under these arches is a combat area protected against attach by toothed merlons and loopholes. The teeth along the perimeter of the tower are set into the inner side of the wall and on the outside there is a cantilever form of two semi-circular archs in belts. (See photo.) To the north and west sides of the tower there were special otkos in the form of a counter force defending the walls from the sea and serving for throwing stones into the side of the enemy. At this end of the citadel there was a unique and distinctive cable system down the face of the cliff. This connected the east edge of the defenses with the seacoast. By means of the rope system the defenders in case of necessity could receive military supplies from the water. And it was by means of this very rope system that in 1475 the last defenders loosing all chance for victory managed to escape to the seacoast and happily sail into the open sea. In 1975- 1980 major restoration work was done on the exterior, the bridge, windows, doors and stairs between floors.
The Georgievski tower (# 17) was built in the 14th - 15th century. It is located in the upper section of the fortress between the Consul's and upper Unnamed Towers and is connected with them by the upper wall. This view shows the upper wall and towers. This photo shows the other side of the wall and the narrow space between it and the cliff. On the Georgievski Tower's western wall is a niche with half circular arch and a small plaque on which is inscribed a high relief depicting a warrior on horseback, presumed to be St George. In the east side of the wall of the tower is a gate through which passed the road from the town to the citadel. The gate was defended by square outer work with sides of 3.7 by 6.6 meters. The fortress wall covered the gate from attack from the side of the town. See detail. The tower is two stories and square in plan with a cutout opening on the side of the gate on north east corner. There are seven loopholes. In the first floor a room served as a chapel. Here were made a series of frescos with illustrations of human figures. The second floor is open to the south side so there were only three walls topped by merlons. Covering the second floor was a wooden floor with beams resting on projections in the walls. In the walls on each level were loopholes. In 1969 the tower was restored.
The upper Unnamed tower (# 18) was built in the 14th -15th century. It is located in the very highest part of the fortress . On the east it is connected by fortress wall to the Georgievski Tower. This photo shows the upper wall between the Georgievski and Unnamed Towers and the Dzorni Tower above. To the west the fortress wall is almost completely ruined to the tower from which is preserved only some fragment. The tower is one story, open. The tower was restored in 1971.
The Dzorni Tower (14-15 Cent) (# 19) is at the very summit of the mountain. It was the lookout tower for the whole fortress and town providing a clear view of all avenues of approach by land and sea. From there one could see the entire country side clear to Au-dag. The tower is an irregular four-sided structure with three levels, but only the lowest level remains. The walls were made of limestone with lime mortar and there were limestone vaults and stairways. On the west side the entrance passage is a narrow corridor with half-circular vaults. It passes out into a large chamber of four irregular sides with loopholes in the east wall. The chamber was covered by vaulting with ribs remaining in the north-east and south-west corners. In the south-west part of the tower there is a remaining chamber without windows or door. The entrance was apparently from above at the level that is no longer remaining. On the walls there are the remanents of frescos. We can surmise that this was a chapel. But some investigators believe that the room was a secret place or that it served as a cistern.
The ancient church (#21 ) was built in the 12th - 14th century. It is located on the side of the mountain below the Dozorni tower. Research in 1973 has shown that it was built not earlier than the 12th century and later rebuilt.
The mosque (# 13) was built in the 13th century, according to the latest information in 1222. It is 14.3 by 13.9 meters. Some researchers consider that the building was rebuilt in 1423 by the Genoese as the Consul's reception hall. Of the original building there remains only the kladka and north east corner and one window with aa that is painted characteristic of Turkish architecture. The dome comes from the beginning of the 14th century. The current portal is from the 16th century. Now the building houses a very fine archeological museum that displays interesting artifacts found in and around the fortress.
The underground structure (# 14) dates from the 14th century. It is located in the eastern part of the fortress near the mosque. The designation is not certain. Some experts consider that it was a cistern for collecting water, but others that it was a prison. It is round in plan and has a covered cupola. The walls
The supply dumps number 1 and 2 (# 4, 5) are from the 14th - 15th century. They are located near the Pasquali Dzhadich tower. In the opinion of one student it was a depot for merchandise, but others think it was a cistern for water. They are rectangular in plan and dug into the ground
Neighboring to the fortress mountain to the west is Bolvan mountain. On it also there was a defensive fortification. And in the valley between the two mountians there was the wall in which was the Astagver tower defending the road down to the sea port and the basin for collecting rain water. Between the Krepostni and Bolvan mountains was a wall. It was part of the town defenses. Between the headlands was a quiet bay. This photo shows part of the modern beach area in this bay with view to south west headland. There was the port suburb with people's homes and the Church of the Twelve Apostles.

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